Showing posts with label Owen Allison. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Owen Allison. Show all posts
Thursday, October 6, 2011

Just Browsing - Cult of the Eyebrow

Eyebrows. I discovered mine at age 17. My friend had gone to work in a pharmacy and came home telling me that eyebrow pencils are important because eyebrows "frame your face". I had never paid them much attention, or even really noticed them much before! Upon inspecting them, I realized my brows were really quite sparse, and the shape was not defined and a bit sketchy - so went out and bought a dark brown eyebrow pencil. Later that week I was watching Twin Peaks and realized what made Audrey Horne's look so hypnotic - those eyebrows! All Elizabeth Taylor arches. It was an epiphany!
  Audrey Horne's 'Elizabeth Taylor style' brows, early 90's
Elizabeth Taylor, 1958
When I was growing up, eyebrows were huge - literally. Brooke Shields lead the way with her dark, bushy, natural brows.
 
Then in the 90's, the style threw back to a far more manicured, shaped look, a la Sherilyn Fenn/Audrey Horn. I like to call it the 'tadpole' look - rounder & thicker near the nose then arched and tapering out. Eyebrows were immaculately penciled, and neat as opposed to the bushy look.
Sherilyn Fenn
As plucking took off, Tweezerman sales went besek as their Tweezers became a beauty must-have.  It got to a stage where there was a lot of over plucking happening. Look at J.Lo & Pammy!
 
 
Lately we've swung back to a thicker, more natural loo -, the antithesis of over-plucked 90's eyebrows. We realized that over-plucking means less growth, and worse - no growth! Latest IT models Arizona Muse and Bambi Northwood-Blyth lead the charge with natural looking, thick brows, Brooke Shields style.
 
Thick liquid eyeliner trends mean that brows must be immaculately shaped to match, 60's style. A lot of attention is going to brows, to the point of being able to get brow stencils for that perfect arch. Eyebrows are big business. You have eyebrow "Queens' such as Anastasia in Beverly Hills, Eliza in New York and Carmen Duma in Melbourne. Many celebs will not trust their eyebrows to anyone else! Julia Roberts once said, “The hardest thing about looking at old photographs of yourself is seeing all your old eyebrows.”
 
Angelina keeps them medium and tidy, with her trademark liquid eyeliner
Gaga goes full-blown
 
Kim K, Megan Fox & Beyonce currently opt for fuller, natural brows
Now we have the option of eyebrow tattooing. Once thought of as a freaky Michael Jackson move, this is now quite common for those with faded or sparse brows, who are sick of drawing them in. Local beauty therapist Nita comes recommended and recently did a stunning job on my colleague's brows. Check Nita out here.
I recently discovered threading. This technique dates back to the ancient India and Middle and Far East, where threading was used to remove unwanted facial hair. The technique involves two threads, rolled over the hair at follicle level, pinching and plucking it out between the tightly entwined threads. It can sting a wee bit but this method is really effective, as it removes hair cleanly and evenly, making it quicker and easier to shape your brows, and like waxing, no strays are left. After years of plucking and waxing, I'd pillaged my brows a bit much, leading to a bit of over-plucking meaning that they had come to look too far apart. Not good. I went to the fabulous Namita at East Day Spa Auckland. She pointed out where I needed to re-grow my brows and immaculately threaded them - the shape has never looked better! As with all brow technicians, finding a good practitioner is key - not only do they need to be able to create the right shape for your face, the method must be carried out correctly or can lead to ingrown hairs, misshapen brows or hair breakage. Best to ask around.

Top Brow Tips by Owen Allison
A brow natural and full is the current fashion shape - think supermodel Hilary Rhoda (above). Measure the balance of the brow by these three guidelines:

1. With a ruler line up the corner of the nose and the inner corner of the eye this is where your brow should start. When you’re looking straight ahead, line up the pupil of the eye and the corner of the nose this should be the highest point of your brow being the peak of the arch
 
2. Then line up corner of the nose and outer corner of the eye and this is where the brow should end. This gives you the brow formula that best balances the symmetry of your face. My favourite brow is groomed up with an empty mascara wand and then filled and defined with a fawn coloured pencil (even on brunettes). 

3. Soften the brow and hold in place with brow gel or a tiny spray of hairspray on a mascara wand
y     
More tips...

* The trend of bright neon lips pairs well with groomed defined '50s looking brows - think pin up girl!

* Brows are sisters, never twins. Try not to fret as few women have perfectly matched brows. Re-balance shape and fill problem areas with stone/fawn coloured pencils or matte brow powders

* Try re-growing your brow shape to achieve a softer younger looking face but if this isn't an option cosmetic tattooing can be very helpful and take years off the face.

* Get to a brow expert to achieve your ideal shaped brow. It may mean 6 months of re-growing to achieve a fuller look

* Try and tonally match your hair colour and brow colour for a more natural look to your face. 

* Brow stencils can give you better guidelines as to fullness and re shaping ideas when working towards the ideal brow shape. 

Check out a full cachet of eyebrow grooming tools and products below.
Eyebrows

Saturday, June 18, 2011

Ace of Base

I am obsessed with good foundation and have spent many years & countless hours trying to get it right. Luckily, I now have 2 clever friends who are in the know & my go-to advisers – stylist, photographer and makeup artist Owen Allison is currently Estee Lauder’s National Makeup artist, and Fox is a freelance makeup artist who has worked with MAC and Estee Lauder, and has also been spotted at the Playboy Mansion. Here are their top tips.

Owen works his magic on gorgeous Antonia

TO BEGIN

Owen:

* Make sure you have a great moisturizer and exfoliate twice a week. Moisturize with a hydrating and protective day cream e.g Estee Lauder’s Time Zone.

* If your nose is prone to oiliness during the day, avoid adding moisture in this area as we want the aura of the face to glow only.

* The dewy look is most flattering. Skin looks brighter and dewier with the dead skin cells sloughed off.

Owen Allison

Fox:

* Never skimp on the basics. Always cleanse, tone/soften and moisturize day and night. Nothing will age your skin faster than not removing daily grime and/or makeup.

* Base can often smooth and fill in fine lines plus gives better longevity. Most prestige brands have a product available that will work in harmony with their other products. Ask your favourite artist at your preferred counter.

COLOUR

Owen:

* Get a professional to match your skin tone. You will be a cool, warm or neutral tone, and they can also advise on the coverage intensity to suit your skin type

* Update your foundation each season - skins change from Summer to Winter. You can also custom mix foundations to suit.

Fox:

* The colour of your skin may change through the seasons, depending on lifestyle and weather. I recommend you get two foundations, one darker (for Summery months) & one lighter (the Winter months) and combine to suit. Always check with your artist and make sure you get them to apply it for you while at the counter - they have valuable tricks and tips for application, and it's great to get some one on one face time to quiz them.

* Every brand has different terminology for warm & cool, yellow base or pink base. Don't let marketing and terminology confuse you. Always ask the professionals if you are unsure about what anything means.

* Go to a counter to wear and feel first. Different products can feel different on your skin.

Fox, Owen and I are huge advocates of Estee Lauder's Double Wear foundation - as the original ads said, it will stay on in jungle terrain! It is great for work, when you need stickability in muggy weather, or after an all-night dance party or Atlantic travel. I have oily skin so I need something that will stay put all day at work. Now new Double Wear Light is out, for a slightly more sheer finish than the original. It also stays on all day! I also love MAC's Studio Fix for good stickability and for a cheaper option, L’Oreal True Match is good, and goes out quite easily. For a great exfoliant, I like Dermalogica's Daily Micofoliant and Antipodes Facial Exfoliator.

Owen Allison

APPLICATION

Owen:

* Brushes work better for blending. Sponges soak up too much product.

* Apply foundation from the middle of the face then, outward. Often only the nose, chin and forehead need foundation.

* If you feel you need more coverage, stick to more sheer foundations and use a concealer for areas that need extra cover (like scars, sun-spots etc). This avoids looking too mask-like. Avoid opaque, pancake makeup unless you are on TV or on stage - it will age you.

Fox:

* Take your time to get your foundation blended right – don’t just slap makeup on, take an active part in it. Try getting up 5 minutes earlier in the mornings to take the time to get it right. Take time to get it right and it will last all day with minimal touch-ups - only powder where you need it.

* Apply only where you need it. Remember that faces are not flat - we all have great curves and angles. BLEND BLEND BLEND!

* Do not use your fingers to apply a whole face, usually we have just moisturized with our fingers and with oily digits - this has a tendency to just smear the foundation right off. Use a brush to work the foundation into the skin. You need a good base - if foundation isn't right everything else will look average.

* Brushes are great as they give you more control and you can feather/press the product and build it and put it where you need it.

* Always check your application in the mirror, especially neck and sides of your face, to make sure you are blended properly. If you have the correct colour and apply only where it's needed, this should never be a problem.

EXTRA TRICKS

Owen:

* Mix a dot of eye cream (e.g. Advanced Night Repair Eye Gel by Estee Lauder) and a concealer (e.g. Double Wear Stay in Place Concealer by Estee Lauder) together and paint out any dark areas of the face paying attention to the inner bridge of the nose and under-eye areas

* A touch of the concealer around the lip area makes your apricot/beige or caramel lip gloss look much clearer.

* Apply a minimal amount of a dewy foundation with a Kabuki style brush (e.g. Resilience Lift Extreme, a radiant lifting make up by Estee Lauder).

Big, fat Kabuki-style brush

* Another great trick here is add a drop of a repair serum (Advanced Night Repair by Estee Lauder) into your liquid foundation and buff this rich glowy formulation into the skin, starting from the nose and blending outwards

Fox:

* You can apply concealer either before or after applying foundation. Applying after can allow you to see where it's needed. Remember there is no right or wrong way to apply.

I worked for Clarins and YSL at Harrods and learned a few wee tricks there. To combat those hungover black bags under the eyes under a night on the tiles in Soho, I cannot recommend Estee Lauder's Smoothing Cream Concealer Disappear and YSL's magic Touche Éclat enough! We sold Touche Éclat hand over fist - one sells every 20 seconds, worldwide! Geri Halliwell used to buy hers from my mate at Harvey Nicks (she used to pop in with Elton John's hubby, David Furnish). I love the new Touche Éclat campaign (above) featuring Ginta Lapina, shot by Terry Richardson. The Disappear gets rid of that grey hue, and Touche Éclat provides brightening to liven up the matte skin. My main tip - Touche Éclat works extra well on top of an eye gel. Disappear lasts forever, it is quite thick so you only need a wee dab. Just be careful and dab around the eyes - the skin is very delicate and paper thin here!

TO FINISH

Owen:

* A good trick to brighten up skin is to buff with a big powder brush after you have applied foundation. There's no need for any powder or product - the brush simply polishes the foundation.

* Apply a touch of your eye cream pressed into any areas of your makeup you want that extra glow such as top of the cheek, middle of the forehead, above the brows - try and avoid too much highlighter on the nose as this can be mistaken for oily skin rather than a dewy look.

* For oily skin, tissue off any excess oil during the day, then lightly add a small amount of powder to the nose, chin and forehead to help absorb any excess oil.

Fox:

* After a light dusting of powder (if required), spritz with MAC Fix to calm and set your skin.

* Stop touching your face during the day. Consciously make the effort to keep your hands off your face!

* Get in touch with the fun of makeup! The whole point of makeup is that it's an evolution - there are no hard and fast rules.

Check out Owen's website here for advertising, editorial, weddings and portrait photography.


Ace your Base

Powder Foundation Brush 3
$42 - saksfifthavenue.com

MAC Fix+
$19 - nordstrom.com

Shiseido Oil-Control Blotting Paper
$18 - bergdorfgoodman.com


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